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	<title>Eli Cooks &#187; fall</title>
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		<title>Eli Cooks &#187; fall</title>
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		<title>Fall Vegetarian Lasagna</title>
		<link>http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/fall-vegetarian-lasagna/</link>
		<comments>http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/fall-vegetarian-lasagna/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Oct 2008 17:35:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Eli</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Main]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cheese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nutmeg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[squash]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elicooks.wordpress.com/?p=187</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
For some reason, every year when fall rolls around I find myself spending more time in the kitchen and making more elaborate meals.  I&#8217;m not sure if it&#8217;s because the weather is cooler, so being in a hot kitchen for hours is more pleasant or because I just like fall food more, so I&#8217;m [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=elicooks.wordpress.com&blog=4037129&post=187&subd=elicooks&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-189" title="fall vegetarian lasagna" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/fall-lasagne.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="fall vegetarian lasagna" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>For some reason, every year when fall rolls around I find myself spending more time in the kitchen and making more elaborate meals.  I&#8217;m not sure if it&#8217;s because the weather is cooler, so being in a hot kitchen for hours is more pleasant or because I just like fall food more, so I&#8217;m more motivated or some other reason entirely.  (Or maybe it&#8217;s just the association of the whole season with Thanksgiving.)  Regardless, I&#8217;ve come to regard fall as the time to try out involved, multi-step recipes.  This one definitely fits the bill, and it&#8217;s well worth it.</p>
<p><span id="more-187"></span></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-190" title="squash slice noodles" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/squash-slices.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="squash slice noodles" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>It takes a bit of time to put together each of the components of this dish, but none of the steps are terribly difficult&#8230;just time consuming when you add them up.  The most time consuming step is probably making the squash &#8220;lasagna noodles&#8221;, but even that&#8217;s just peeling and slicing squash, then blanching it.  And it&#8217;s completely worth it&#8230;I&#8217;ve always thought the noodles in a traditional lasagna were more filler than anything; sure they provide structure, but they don&#8217;t really add much to the flavor of the dish.  (Plus noodles made from squash are just cool.)  This dish doesn&#8217;t really have any filler ingredients; every component has a bold flavor, yet those flavors are well balanced in the final dish.  You can distinctly taste the squash, kale, sage, swiss and nutmeg, but no one flavor dominates.</p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-191" title="kale onions sage parsley" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/kale-onions-sage-parsley.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="kale onions sage parsley" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>I would, however, change the texture a bit if I could.  As it stands now, the texture is a bit on the soft side&#8230;not quite, but almost, mushy.  I think adding toasted pine nuts to the kale layer would add some welcome toothsomeness, as well as reinforcing the caramelized flavor of the onions.  Don&#8217;t get me wrong, it&#8217;s lovely as is, but there&#8217;s always some small improvement to be made in any recipe.  For those of you who think a meal just isn&#8217;t complete without meat, you could easily add some crumbled, cooked Italian sausage, either in the kale layer or as a separate layer.  I definitely don&#8217;t think the dish <em>needs</em> the meat, but it wouldn&#8217;t hurt.</p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-192" title="lasagne construction" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/lasagne-construction.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="lasagne construction" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>You might have noticed that this recipe uses only the necks of the butternut squash, so you&#8217;ll end up with the bulbous ends of the butternut squash left over; you can&#8217;t really make a good lasagna noodle with a big hole in the middle where the seeds were removed.  (You might also end up with some extra squash slices, depending on the size of your squash, but better too many than too few.)  You could steam them with some <a href="http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/20/winter-squash-with-sage-roasted-garlic-brown-butter/">sage brown butter</a>, make them into <a href="http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/23/butternut-pear-soup-with-spiced-creme-fraiche/">soup</a> or simply <a href="http://www.doriegreenspan.com/dorie_greenspan/2008/09/pumpkin-packed-with-bread-and-cheese-a-recipe-in-progress.html">roast them whole</a>.  There&#8217;s never a shortage of options for winter squash.</p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>Fall Vegetarian Lasagna</strong> </p>
<p><em>You can do everything except baking the casserole a day in advance or even prep all the ingredients one day, assemble the next and bake the third.  You could even freeze it (unbaked) for later.<br />
This recipe will make one 9&#215;13 casserole or two smaller casseroles: one for now and one for later.<br />
If you&#8217;re planning to assemble the recipe in advance, use a bit less sage.  In the recipe as written here, the flavors meld together into a harmonious whole very well when the components are assembled, baked ans served immediately.  However, if they&#8217;re allowed to sit and meld together, the sage starts to creep into the other components and overwhelm the balance of flavors.  (This is true if you bake it, then eat the leftovers for lunch too.)  Simply using a bit less sage upfront will mitigate that.</em></p>
<p>5 Tbsp butter, divided<br />
2 medium onions, thinly sliced<br />
2 large butternut squash, necks only, sliced about 1/16th inch thick (Use a mandoline.)<br />
2 oz flour<br />
1 tsp nutmeg<br />
4 cups milk<br />
2 bunches kale, stems removed and roughly chopped<br />
8 oz swiss cheese, grated<br />
4 oz parmesan cheese, grated<br />
(a bit less than) 1/4 cup sage<br />
(a bit more than) 1/4 cup parsley<br />
breadcrumbs</p>
<p><strong>Prep the vegetables:</strong><br />
Melt 1 Tbsp butter, then saute the onions over medium-low heat until lightly browned all over, approximately 20 minutes.  Set aside.</p>
<p>Blanch the squash slices in batches in boiling water for 2 minutes, then immediately plunge into ice water.  They&#8217;ll be just starting to get tender, but still somewhat crisp.  After the squash has cooled, lay it out on towels in a single layer to dry off.  Set aside.</p>
<p>Blanch the kale in batches in boiling water for about 1 minute, then immediately plunge into ice water.  Drain the kale, then squeeze out the excess water.  Mix in the onions, sage and parsley.  Add salt to taste.  Set aside.</p>
<p><strong>Make béchamel:</strong><br />
Melt the remaining butter in a medium saucepan and stir in the flour to form a roux.  Cook, stirring occasionally until the roux is light golden brown.  Stir in the nutmeg.  Add the milk a bit at a time, stirring until completely mixed each time.  Once all the milk is incorporated, bring to a boil, then simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes until the sauce has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.  Add about 2/3 of the swiss and parmesan and stir until melted.  Add salt to taste.  Set aside.</p>
<p><strong>Assemble and bake the lasagna:</strong><br />
Preheat the oven to 350 F.  In a 9&#215;13 casserole, cover the bottom with squash slices.  Overlap the slices a bit; it&#8217;s better to have overlap than gaps.  Spread about half the kale mixture over the squash slices.  Spoon enough béchamel over the kale to barely cover.  Repeat with layers of squash, kale, béchamel, squash and béchamel.  Sprinkle the remaining swiss and parmesan over the top layer of béchamel, then sprinkle breadcrumbs over the cheese.</p>
<p>The layers should go as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>squash</li>
<li>kale</li>
<li>béchamel</li>
<li>squash</li>
<li>kale</li>
<li>béchamel</li>
<li>squash</li>
<li>béchamel</li>
<li>cheese</li>
<li>breadcrumbs</li>
</ul>
<p>Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the casserole is bubbly and the cheese and breadcrumbs are browned.  If the casserole gets all bubbly before the top is browned, pop it under the broiler for a minute or two.</p></div>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
	
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			<media:title type="html">eliemalone</media:title>
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		<media:content url="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/fall-lasagne.jpg" medium="image">
			<media:title type="html">fall vegetarian lasagna</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">squash slice noodles</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">kale onions sage parsley</media:title>
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		<item>
		<title>Butternut-Pear Soup with Spiced Crème Fraîche</title>
		<link>http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/23/butternut-pear-soup-with-spiced-creme-fraiche/</link>
		<comments>http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/23/butternut-pear-soup-with-spiced-creme-fraiche/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2008 13:10:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Eli</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Soup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pears]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[spices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[squash]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elicooks.wordpress.com/?p=174</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
As I said a few days ago, I love winter squash.  Really, I love fall cooking in general.  I love the deep, rich flavors.  I love root vegetables.  I love anything roasted.  Hell, I love that I can turn on the oven without making the house unbearably hot.  I [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=elicooks.wordpress.com&blog=4037129&post=174&subd=elicooks&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-175" title="spiced butternut and pear soup" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/spiced-squash-and-pear-soup.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="spiced butternut and pear soup" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>As I said <a href="http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/20/winter-squash-with-sage-roasted-garlic-brown-butter/">a few days ago</a>, I love winter squash.  Really, I love fall cooking in general.  I love the deep, rich flavors.  I love root vegetables.  I love anything roasted.  Hell, I love that I can turn on the oven without making the house unbearably hot.  I love the hearty, comforting foods.  I love soup.  I love the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction">Maillard reaction</a>.  I love that somehow, when the weather gets cooler, I can add more butter and not feel (as) guilty.  I love coming in from a crisp day to a house that smells like cooking.  This soup is a great example of why I love fall food.  Rich, earthy butternut squash, sweet pears and warm spices, all in one steaming hot bowl (with a chill streak of crème fraîche to make you grateful to be sitting in a warm kitchen.)</p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span id="more-174"></span><br />
<img class="size-full wp-image-176" title="squash and pears" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/squash-and-pears.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="squash and pears" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>This soup was a bit of an accident, actually.  I&#8217;ve been making a similar soup for years with maple and jalapeño in place of the pears and spices.  (I&#8217;ve been told half-jokingly that I&#8217;m not welcome at the family Thanksgiving without it.)  I was planning to make that soup again.  Then my last CSA box appeared with these dessert pears.  I tried one and it was very firm, but also a bit mealy and VERY sweet.  I knew they needed to be cooked somehow.  I thought the pears and winter squash would complement each other nicely, so figured I might as well make a squash-pear soup.  Add a few spices to brighten the flavors and we&#8217;re in business.  All it needed was some freshly baked bread to call it dinner.</p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-176" title="soup cooking" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/soup-cooking.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="soup cooking" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>Butternut-Pear Soup with Spiced Crème Fraîche</strong> </p>
<p><em>I used dessert pears for this recipe.  They&#8217;re small, firm and very sweet pears.  I&#8217;m sure the recipe would work well with other types of pears, but you&#8217;ll probably want to add some brown sugar or honey if you use a less sweet pear.<br />
You could easily substitute onions, or better yet shallots, for the leeks; I just happened to have leeks on hand.</em></p>
<p>3 whole star anise<br />
6 pods green cardamom<br />
1/4 tsp coriander<br />
1/2 cup crème fraîche (or sour cream)<br />
2 tsp honey<br />
2 Tbsp butter<br />
1 small leek (white and light green parts only), chopped<br />
1 butternut squash (about 3 lbs whole), peeled, seeded and cubed<br />
about 1 1/2 lb pears, peeled, cored and cubed<br />
water<br />
salt to taste</p>
<p>Grind the spices together in a spice/coffee grinder or mortar and pestle.  If you have large pieces left, either grind it more or sift it to remove the pieces.  You should have about 1 Tbsp total once they&#8217;re ground.</p>
<p>Mix together 1 tsp spices, honey and crème fraîche.  Refridgerate until the rest of the soup is ready.</p>
<p>Brown the butter in a medium saucepan.  (Heat over high until it foams up, then the bubbles subside.)  Turn the heat down to medium-low, add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are translucent.  Add the rest of the spices.  (This should be about 2 tsp.)  Add the squash and enough water to barely cover the squash.  Increase the heat and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.  Add the pears and simmer an additional 10-15 min, until the pears and squash are both very tender.*</p>
<p>Puree the soup in batches in a blender.  Add salt to taste.  (Start with about 1 Tbsp and add from there to your taste.)  Depending on how sweet your squash and pears are, you might want to add just a bit of brown sugar at this point; I did not, but I was using very sweet pears.</p>
<p>Serve the soup hot with a dollop of the cold crème fraîche in each bowl.</p>
<p>* This timing assumes pretty firm pears.  If you&#8217;re using softer pears, wait until later to add them.</p></div>
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		<title>Winter Squash with Sage Roasted Garlic Brown Butter</title>
		<link>http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/20/winter-squash-with-sage-roasted-garlic-brown-butter/</link>
		<comments>http://elicooks.wordpress.com/2008/10/20/winter-squash-with-sage-roasted-garlic-brown-butter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Oct 2008 03:32:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Eli</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Side]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[butter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[squash]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elicooks.wordpress.com/?p=164</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
A few days ago, I had hands down the best winter squash I&#8217;ve ever had the pleasure to eat.  I don&#8217;t have such hubris as to talk about my own cooking that way (although my preparation was pretty damn good.)  Just the squash itself was amazing.  Eating the steamed squash plain with [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=elicooks.wordpress.com&blog=4037129&post=164&subd=elicooks&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-168" title="carnival squash with sage roasted garlic brown butter" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/carnival-squash-with-sage-roasted-garlic-brown-butter.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="carnival squash with sage roasted garlic brown butter" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>A few days ago, I had hands down the best winter squash I&#8217;ve ever had the pleasure to eat.  I don&#8217;t have such hubris as to talk about my own cooking that way (although my preparation was pretty damn good.)  Just the squash itself was amazing.  Eating the steamed squash plain with nothing added was phenomenal&#8230;rich, earthy and sweet in much the same way as all winter squash, but somehow moreso.  Have you ever tried to cook or eat a carving pumpkin?  They taste like someone took the flavor of an acorn or butternut and cut it in half.  This tasted like someone took the flavor of an acorn or butternut and doubled it.</p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span id="more-164"></span><br />
<img class="size-full wp-image-169" title="carnival squash" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/carnival-squash.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="carnival squash" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>The thing is, I don&#8217;t know if I&#8217;ve found my new favorite squash or if this one squash was just an exemplary specimen.  It was a carnival squash that came from my CSA box and I&#8217;ve never had carnival squash before.  I guess the only thing to do is find another carnival squash and see how it tastes, but I&#8217;m a bit hesitant.  This one was great, even if it is just the one and not the whole cultivar.  But it will still be rather a letdown if the next carnival squash isn&#8217;t any better than any other winter squash.  Don&#8217;t get me wrong, I love winter squash&#8230;I look forward to fall every year, just so I can cook a bunch of winter squash again.  But this one was just so good.</p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-170" title="sage and roasted garlic" src="http://elicooks.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/sage-and-roasted-garlic.jpg?w=500&#038;h=325" alt="sage and roasted garlic" width="500" height="325" /></p>
<p>I&#8217;ve made winter squash this way before, and it&#8217;s great: sublimely simple in effort and flavor.  The rich saltiness of the brown butter really complements the sweet squash and the sage and roasted garlic add just the right counterpoints.  But it was really dumb luck that I made such a simple preparation for a squash that needed so little to shine.  It was definitely a serendipitous meal, and one I won&#8217;t forget for a long while.</p>
<div id="recipe"><strong>Winter Squash with Sage Roasted Garlic Brown Butter</strong> </p>
<p><em>I use salted butter for the brown butter.  Depending on how salty your butter is, the brown butter might taste a bit overly salty on its own, but remember that it&#8217;s also salting the squash.</em></p>
<p><em>Tossing the sage in the butter while it&#8217;s still screaming hot basically fries the sage in the butter, dispersing the sage flavor through the butter and crisping the sage all at once.</p>
<p></em><em>This pairs wonderfully with simply sauteed pork chops for a full meal.  Spoon the brown butter over the pork chops as well.</em></p>
<p>1 medium to large winter squash<br />
6-7 large leaves sage, chopped<br />
4 cloves roasted garlic, chopped *recipe below<br />
4 Tbsp salted butter</p>
<p>Poke the squash several times with a knife.  Be sure the knife reaches all the way in to the center cavity.  Microwave the squash whole for 10-20 minutes, depending on the size of the squash and the power of your microwave, until the squash is soft all over.  Cut the squash in half.  Scoop out the seeds and discard.  Scoop the flesh out of the skin and mash the flesh.</p>
<p>Heat the butter over medium heat in a small saucepan until the butter foams up and the foam subsides.  Remove the butter from the heat and immediately stir in the sage and garlic.</p>
<p>Serve the squash hot with the brown butter on the side.</p>
<p>*Roasted Garlic: Put a whole, unpeeled head of garlic in the oven at 250 F for about 2 hours.</p></div>
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